Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Photos! Finally! Et la vie quotidienne...

In my last-minute preparations for France, I brought the wrong USB cord for my camera, and I didn't get a replacement until yesterday, which was sad because it meant I was taking some photos, but they didn't have anywhere to go. Here's what I've got so far. It's just the beginning:

This is the front of my building, at 161 Rue du Chevaleret. Typical crazy French facade and fancy door. The building is old, which is not as common in the 13th. My apartment isn't nearly as cool-looking as the facade, but I really like the way my building looks.

And inside - this is the biggest room in my apartment. I only have 17 square meters, but as you can see, I have a very French window and faux balcony in the corner.

I'm not religious at all, but Notre Dame is pretty amazing even for those born secular. I mean, it's beautiful. It's mesmerizing to just look up at it for a long time. Just watch out for all of the tourists taking pictures. I mean, not that I did that or anything... And also, gargoyles? Yeah. I love the gargoyles.

I love these eyes - they were up along the Seine when I first got here. The last time I was back at Quai des Celestins, they had started to peel off, sadly, but Paris is full of ephemeral art (and public art!) like this. And in Paris, even a lot of the graffiti is beautiful. Although there are probably some who would disagree with me.

This is the view from the cafe I would go to every day to check my email when I was staying at Hotel du Fauconnier in the Marais. You could just sit and look out at these buildings (all old, spotless, and pretty) and listen to crowds of people go by on the street below. A nice way to spend an afternoon.

You can take the girl out of the Smith College art department, but you can't take the Smith College art department out of the girl.

Saint-Jacques, near the Marais - I went here during my first few days in France, because from a distance I thought it was Notre Dame. Turns out it isn't, but it's still a beautiful cathedral (I think, maybe it technically isn't...) with a small park surrounding it, which was full of Parisians reading when I was there. Paris is full of places to sit and think or read, which I love, so it was a nice discovery.

So there you have it - photographic evidence that I live here. Further evidence is the fact that I've had my first truly stressful few days not due to trying to find an apartment but due to ordinary things - like Mondays, and then coming home yesterday to find that my land lord had decided to fix one of the pipes in my apartment without calling me first. That was awkward. There are few things as awkward as walking into your hallway to see your apartment door open and then to see a gnome pop out holding a wrench, informing you that he would have called but his cell phone died.

Then, later in the evening, the previous tenant of my apartment showed up just as I was getting home for the second time trying to get his mail out of my mailbox. He explained that he transferred his address but his mail is still coming here. So I gave him anything in my boite aux lettres that was clearly his, and then he gave me his email address so that I can email him if anything else comes for him.

So basically, a day of awkward interactions, not really abated by the fact that I have an earache at the moment, and all I really wanted to do was make couscous and lentils and try out my brand new French ear drops and watch True Blood. Sometimes it really is the little things.

Today got off to a better start. I went to my quartier's market, which goes under the Metro (it's above ground here), and people sell all manner of fruits and veggies and cheese and flowers and junk and Indian scarves and Chinese food, and the prices are way cheaper than supermarches. I got a huge bag of apples, oranges, and tomatoes, a tiny piece of fancy gouda and a small pat of chevre, and a bunch of irises for my desk. On the way home, I picked up a schedule for yoga classes at a community center near my apartment, and picked up my daily 40 centimes demi-baguette at Boulangerie Jeanne d'Arc. I think the market is definitely the way to go for cheap produce, but the cheese was pretty quality, and I think if I stick to the generic cheese at the supermarche, that might be the cheaper way to go. This is very mundane, but shopping for food in Paris, while way cheaper than buying groceries in the United States, relies on comparison-shopping and trying out as many options as possible. And there are a lot of options - everything from cheap discount grocery stores to more ordinary grocery stores, to borderline Target-ish stores full of pricy food and crying kids in the cereal aisle. Apparently one's desire for Frosted Flakes and consequent tantrum is not an American phenomenon. Who knew?

I've found that Carrefour is pretty reasonably priced if you buy the Carrefour products (this is my grocery store of choice), Leader Price is dirt cheap but kind of scary, Casino is a bit more expensive than Carrefour, and Monoprix, while it is essentially called "one price" is overpriced. I'm a big fan of my generic Carrefour cereal and lentils and couscous and fresh fruit and fromage blanc (which is cheese, but it's like a more runny version of plain yogurt) with jam. A lot of things here are really affordable - coffee beans are cheaper, as are basic staples. And totally random things are more expensive. American things are more expensive too, obviously - any international foods section in a typical grocery store will have incredibly pricy peanut butter and pancakes and maple syrup on the American shelf.

I've found that life in Paris is definitely as glamorous as you'd want it to be - you really can just buy a cafe creme and sit in a cafe for hours reading and writing. The majority of the people who live here dress beautifully, the food is delicious and sometimes even cheap, and every day I walk past beautiful things that are just here and have been forever. I also tend to stumble over things that I love - especially bookstores. The Metro is amazing and makes getting around really easy - nothing is too far away. I can hop on in the 13th and get off in the Marais or Montmartre.

But - a big part of living here is also what it would be anywhere else - figuring out how to save the most money on groceries, figuring out how to get to work on time, figuring out which boulangerie in your neighborhood has the best bread at the cheapest price, figuring out how to plunge your toilet, putting up with the annoying parts of living in an old Parisian apartment building. It's a lot of logistics and getting oriented, which I guess is really the difference between being here as a tourist and being here because you live here.

But I never wanted to live here because I like visiting the Eiffel Tower, anyway.

Now it's rainy, and I'm in my apartment listening to Iron and Wine, putting off going out again for boring but necessary errands. La vie quotidienne, I guess.

More pictures are on the way. I now have a whole memory card to fill up, and I am really excited to finally be able to photograph the things I see every day.

2 comments:

  1. Love the pictures. Chicago is pretty right now, but too familiar-- and I can't deal with the mass of pictures on my camera. At some point I though a 4 Gig card was a good idea, and things spiraled out of control from there.

    The eyes are definitely my favorite! Downright Banksy; just as trippy, but prettier. When I first skimmed through I thought it was painted arches or something. Weird how it blends in until you notice it.

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  2. Thanks Pending! Yeah, I love all of the weird public/guerrilla art in Paris. It's really fun to just wander and see whatever happens to be spray painted all over the place. I'm not sure what the eyes were about, but there was a whole stretch of pairs of eyes along the Seine. I loved seeing them every day.

    And I'm glad you like the pictures. I'm trying to take a lot now that I can actually upload them!

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